(Published in O Heraldo -Goa- June 09')
Long after the haggis is eaten up and bagpiper tunes fade away into yesterday, Edinburgh is still on my mind. So let’s get our kilts on and take a closer look at this little European capital city and her people, culture and magic.
The Edinburgh castle is the jewel around which everything began. Built atop a volcano, it stands high above the city, as if watching over it and can be seen from any angle around town. The royal boroughs, one which sprang at the foot of the castle and the other around the abbey of Holyrood were the early beginnings of this beautiful capital. Her history is a dark long one, full of battles between tribes, countries and religions which have all in some way contributed to her rich culture and identity.
Step onto her cobbled pavements around the old town and you can’t help but admire the beautiful architecture in St. Giles Cathedral, the law courts and Government buildings. A walk along the Royal Mile is sure to leave you refreshed and feeling like royalty. Meandering down from the castle dotted by cafes, quaint shops, little closes (tiny lanes that branch out along its sides), florists, souvenir shops and sprinkled with amateur dramatists and street art, it is the prime location of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Along this stretch, you are sure to find anything from old records, tattoo parlors, pubs, whisky shops, quiet book shops, tea shops and pizzerias. It’s quite a walk but you won’t feel your toes crunch as there’s just something so easy and breezy about the mile. It’s nice to just get into something pretty and colorful and take a walk on a cool summer day. We all have that silk scarf or those red boots that quirky little fashion statement that we wouldn’t dare wear on a serious note. Put them on and flaunt your style along the mile, because everything that stands out elsewhere fits in and blends here.
Below the castle, by its gardens, lies Princes Street, adorned by the Princes gardens to the right and underlined by a disease of commercial giants like M&S, Next, Currys, Zara, Boots etc. to the left. It’s always buzzing with happy shoppers, party hoppers, students, men in suits and coated ladies in boots, scurrying around and going on with their day. The heart of Edinburgh beats loudest here. There’s always that sole bagpiper playing his melody at the end of the gardens, just by Princes mall; on summer days there could be more bagpipe tunes in the air adding that special highland feel to your otherwise ordinary promenade. It is flanked by smaller streets like George Street, Fredrick Street and Rose Street which house offices, banks, restaurants and designer shops. Rose Street is a tiny lane of pubs, clubs and restos with an amateur or two singing his song for a passerby to drop pennies in his hat.
Edinburgh is the culture hub of the UK and host to various festivals, be it film, art, literature, theatre, science or dance. Most of these are held during the summer months of June to September. Summers are lovely here and really appreciated by the locals. If there’s one thing I’ve learnt from this city, it’s never to take my sunny days for granted. Through most of the year, its grey skies, light rain and intense northern winds, that make it impossible to walk straight most of the time. The winters are not too harsh but the winds make them unbearable. Christmas is celebrated commercially, with ice skating rinks, fayres (fairs), rides and the famous German Christmas market in the city gardens. Hogmanay celebrations at New years are grander and fired with spirits, laughter and fireworks.
Edinburgers are lively, loud and vivacious people known for their love for life and always seem to be in high spirits. Alcohol, especially malts, scotch and whisky are an integral part of their lifestyle and culture. Whether it’s a birthday party, work night out or just mates catching up, all lanes lead to a pub. Hardly surprising, that the best malts and whiskies come from Scotland. Take bus No.22 out of town and you can’t ignore the strong aroma of barley brewing, which somehow always left me feeling hungry.
Good drink is enjoyed with good food or vice versa and Scots in particular love their meats. Pork, beef, duck, hare, goose, or lamb; almost any farm animal is eaten here and also easily available. Edinburgers enjoy their seafood being close to the sea, although their fish didn’t do it for me. Hailing from Goa, my high expectations were either over smoked or over frozen.
It’s quite hard to obtain fresh sea produce at an affordable rate, thus leaving you with no option but pretend you enjoy frozen shrimp!
You’ll find a variety of world cuisine restaurants in town and always ask a local for their preference before you pick where to eat. There are places that have fixed buffet rates, which are more affordable rather than the sleek fine diners that are guaranteed to leave a hole in your wallet. During festivals or special national celebrations, Scots gorge on Haggis, potatoes, peas, pies and guzzle gallons of lager.
Haggis is one of those authentic specialties that is best left a mystery. Adventurous as I am, I tried it once and well… I didn’t try it again. It’s made of pork, tripe and fat all stuffed into a gut ball that strangely for me resembled the bag in the bagpipes. Scots however seem to love it and it graces their table on big occasions and feasts.
Getting around Edinburgh is a breeze as the Lothian bus service is excellent, and voted the best in the UK. The Lothian bus drivers, dressed smartly and full of wit and charm are worth paying for that day ticket on the bus, I must add. Come 2011 the trams will be winding their way around the city, work for which is already well on the way. This will make traveling around town even easier and more efficient.
With so much happening all the time, this city is always buzzing and unsurprisingly voted as the best student city in the UK in 2008. It has a number of well reputed colleges and universities and thus home to so many local, European and international students.
Where the ultra urban, uber cool make new strides, along the canvas of old history pages; Edinburgh is definitely a modern classic. Where, the present and the future synchronize with the past; old steeples, holy chapels, chic cafes, trendy taverns, big city lights, dusty graveyards; each exuding its own special charm yet merging beautifully with each other. Edinburgh screams for superlatives and no lyrics, melody, music or poesie would do her enough justice.
You know you are an Edinburger if,
You pronounce the ‘burgh’ in Edinburgh as in borough and not hamburger!
You love your iron bru (a fizzy soft drink that’s drunk like water)
Your idea of a good time is an evening at the pub watching Rugby
You ‘aye’ when you agree and ‘nae’ when you don’t. (Yes and no in English)
You’re a guy and you prance around in a skirt (Don’t get me wrong. I totally dig kilts!)
Don’t miss out on:
A visit to the Royal museum to get a glimpse of Scotland’s past, present and future and your snapshot with Dolly!
A night out Caleidh dancing.(Its really easy if you follow the crowd)
A visit to Portobelo (It’s the closest you’ll get to a beach)
A whisky trail(where you can experience how its made and sample it till you get happy!)
A visit to Roslyn Chapel (and be sure to crack the Da Vinci Code)
A football match between the Hearts and Hibbs (Madness guaranteed: both local clubs!)
